Lance Avery Morgan
Plaids, Prep, And Panache Define The Legend, Especially In His New Book, STORYTELLER
Photography courtesy of Jeffrey Banks
There are designers who chase trends, and then there is Honorary Texan Jeffrey Banks, who creates multi-generational classics that outlast them. For more than five decades, Banks has occupied a singular space in the American fashion landscape: part historian, part visionary, and always impeccably dressed. His work is at once a love letter to heritage and a bold rewrite of the rulebook in STORYTELLER: Tales From A Fashion Insider (from Pointed Leaf Press, $75), reminding us that tradition isn’t meant to be preserved under glass; it’s meant to be worn, lived in, and joyfully reimagined, as he shares with our fashion and design chronicler, Lance Avery Morgan.
Born in Washington, D.C., raised in Boston and New York, and educated at the Parsons School of Design, Banks was seemingly destined to intersect with greatness. But it wasn’t destiny alone that launched his career; it was grit, talent, and a precocious sense of self. As a teenager, he worked for Ralph Lauren, absorbing the early codes of a brand that would come to define aspirational Americana. Soon after, he moved to Calvin Klein, where he experienced a contrasting design philosophy grounded in sensual minimalism. That early exposure to two giants of American fashion, opposites in approach, shaped Banks’ own nuanced sensibility: one that appreciates sharp tailoring as much as bold color, and celebrates prep not as a costume, but as a cultural lens.
In 1977, at the age of 25, Banks launched his eponymous label with a menswear line rooted in Anglo-American traditions. However, while the references may have been traditional, the execution was anything but expected. He brought youth, energy, and diversity to designs that might otherwise have been considered stiff or nostalgic. His collections have always struck a deft balance between the studied and the spirited, the structured and the stylish. “Preppy” was never so playful, or so purposeful.
Preppy is never dead. It is a perennial, but like any other classic, it needs to be continually tweaked to remain relevant. Jeffrey Banks
And yet, to reduce Jeffrey Banks to the realm of menswear alone would be a mistake. In the 1980s, he launched a women’s line, further expanding his influence. He became a fixture not only in high-end fashion circles but also on QVC and HSN, bringing refined design to a broader audience with an infectious mix of charisma and expertise. He democratized style without diluting it, proving that fashion can be both elevated and accessible. Whether it’s a tartan blazer or a printed neckerchief, his pieces always carry that ineffable Banks charm: intelligent, joyful, confident.
His client list reads like a who’s who of refined taste: Princess Diana, David Rockefeller, Oprah Winfrey, and even a young Barack Obama have all worn his designs. Yet Banks himself remains grounded and gracious, preferring conversations about textile provenance or the evolution of Ivy League aesthetics over celebrity flash. His true love is the story behind the stitch; the cultural narrative behind a well-cut jacket or the migration history woven into a plaid pattern.
That love of narrative has extended to his prolific work as an author and archivist of fashion. Banks has penned several acclaimed books, including Tartan: Romancing the Plaid, Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style, and To The Point: The Bow Tie Book, Norman Norell, and Patricia Highsmith, each as meticulously researched as they are visually lush. These aren’t coffee table books for decoration; they’re cultural documents that preserve the vocabulary of style with precision and wit.
Through it all, Banks has remained a champion of American design at its best: layered, diverse, and built on the blending of global influences. He understands that style is never static; it evolves alongside society, reflecting shifts in politics, taste, race, class, and aspiration. He has long been a vocal advocate for inclusion in an industry that has often been slow to evolve. He continues to mentor emerging designers, particularly those from underrepresented backgrounds, with the same generosity and curiosity that have always defined his own work.
Dressing Diana Ross, Bill Cosby, Bob Costas, Bobby Short, Malcolm Jamal-Warner, and Maurice Hines taught me to try to leave my ego at the door. Jeffrey Banks
Now in the fifth decade of his career, Jeffrey Banks is not resting on his laurels. He’s still sketching, still researching, and still reinventing the classics. His presence in the industry is as vital as ever; not because he chases relevance, but because he is relevant. By grounding his creativity in cultural understanding, craft, and authenticity, he continues to offer something rare: fashion that feels as good as it looks, and stories that are as rich as the fabric through which they’re told.
In an industry that often confuses noise with innovation, Jeffrey Banks is a symphony of substance, soul, and style. And he’s not done yet. In fact, he has a new men’s clothing line that will be available in stores and a new line of home goods that will be on HSN, so everywhere you are, you can have a little Jeffrey Banks in your life.
Here’s a fun round of style questions to get to know Banks and his very fashionable world better.
You started in fashion as a teenager. What possessed you to think you could play with the big names so early, and how did you prove yourself right?
JEFFREY BANKS: I guess I had a bit of confidence. Having gotten rave reviews for my designs since I was 10 years old, I felt that I could at least be considered with some of the folks I so admired.
Working under both Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein in your early days, what did each teach you, and how did you blend those opposing styles into your own signature?
JEFFREY BANKS: Ralph taught me about integrity in product and design, and Calvin was a master of marketing. I took both of these values in hand, in creating my brand.
When you launched your label in the ’70s, American menswear wasn’t exactly known for flair. How did you shake things up without shaking off tradition?
JEFFREY BANKS: The first revolution I pushed was that of color, of which I am still an enormous fan. I don’t believe any color is gender specific. And as far as design goes, I wanted men to look younger, slimmer, and my fit emphasized that with new proportions.
Preppy, polished, and always with a wink, how did you manage to make Ivy League style feel cool again for generations of modern men and women? I was the first one on board to follow your stylish lead, as a fan and customer.
JEFFREY BANKS: Preppy is never dead. It is a perennial, but like any other classic, it needs to be continually tweaked to remain relevant.
Your career spans five decades. What’s changed the most: the clothes, the clients, or the culture?
JEFFREY BANKS: Primarily, it’s the culture. Men take significantly better care of their appearance than they did before; with fitness, grooming, and plastic surgery no longer taboo. If men are going to spend so much time and attention on their appearance, they want clothes that show off their hard work.
What’s the secret to staying timeless in an industry obsessed with what’s next?
JEFFREY BANKS: Simple. Stay true to yourself. Ralph taught me that.
With your client list that includes everyone from Princess Diana to David Rockefeller, what’s your best “I can’t believe this is really happening” moment?
JEFFREY BANKS: Dressing Diana Ross, Bill Cosby, Bob Costas, Bobby Short, Malcolm Jamal-Warner, and Maurice Hines taught me to try to leave my ego at the door.
You’ve designed for celebrities, CEOs, and Olympians. What’s the trick to dressing people who represent more than just themselves?
JEFFREY BANKS: The whole point is to make them look and feel good about themselves. You should not project your style onto them, but rather enhance and refine their own personal style to its maximum potential.
How do you balance being both a historian of style and a creator of what’s next?
JEFFREY BANKS: You cannot think about your point of view in the context of history, only in terms of representing your style values consistently.
Let’s talk legacy: what do you hope people remember when they hear “Jeffrey Banks”… especially young designers, because I know mentoring is important to you.
JEFFREY BANKS: Hopefully, they will remember that I was a trailblazer in many ways and that, over a long period, I was commercially successful.
Fashion today is more diverse and democratic than ever. What excites you most about the current generation of designers?
JEFFREY BANKS: The most exciting thing today (or at any time, frankly) is when you see a designer who has a distinct point of view.
If you were to design one final “capsule collection” that tells the story of your career, what would be in it, and who would you want to wear it?
JEFFREY BANKS: It would be a collection of great coats, hand-knit sweaters, and beautifully cut suits, beautifully worn by Colman Domingo or Richard Gere.
What’s the most misunderstood thing about American style, and how have you spent your career setting the record straight?
JEFFREY BANKS: That American style is boring or lacks innovation. Nothing could be further from the truth.
The best career advice I’ve received is…
JEFFREY BANKS: Hire an assistant who is as good as you, if not better.
Three qualities that got me where I am today are…
JEFFREY BANKS: Integrity, telling the truth, being nice.
Easiest career decision I ever made is…
JEFFREY BANKS: Going to work at Britches of Georgetown at age 15.
What is influencing me right now is…
JEFFREY BANKS: The usability and wearability of the products I design.
How I made my first dollar…
JEFFREY BANKS: Creating pastel portraits of friends and teachers.
First music I bought was…
JEFFREY BANKS: Original cast recordings.
Whenever I hear a Yacht Rock song, I immediately…
JEFFREY BANKS: Go crazy for Christopher Cross all over again.
Last thing I binge/marathon watched…
JEFFREY BANKS: The Buccaneers, Season 1.
Book that left a lasting impression on me…
JEFFREY BANKS: A Private View by Irene Selznick.
On that note, my favorite fiction character is…
JEFFREY BANKS: Gandalf the Grey.
My real-life hero has got to be…
JEFFREY BANKS: President Barack Obama.
If I lived in a foreign city, it would be…
JEFFREY BANKS: London
If I could compete in an Olympic sport, or create one, it would be…
JEFFREY BANKS: Ballroom dancing.
If I wasn’t doing what I do, I would be an…
JEFFREY BANKS: Art Director.
A celebrity I would prank phone call, and what I would ask them is…
JEFFREY BANKS: Harrison Ford, “Is your refrigerator running?”
My hidden talent that most people might not guess is…
JEFFREY BANKS: I sing rather well.
If I had a superpower, I’d want it to be…
The ability to fly.
A simple way to get people to laugh is easy. Just…
Tell great jokes
A phrase I might overuse would be…
Fantastic!
My motto? Easy. It is…
JEFFREY BANKS: Do the best you can.
Favorite scent these days is…
JEFFREY BANKS: Acqua Di Parma Fig (because it’s sexy).
My style icon is…
JEFFREY BANKS: Cary Grant and Fred Astaire.
My personal style signifier is…
JEFFREY BANKS: Beautiful tailoring.
The classic designer I wish was still designing today would be…
JEFFREY BANKS: Fulco di Verdura.
The last meal that truly impressed me was…
JEFFREY BANKS: Cibreo Caffe in Firenze.
In my fridge, you will always find…
JEFFREY BANKS: Many kinds of mustard and Champagne.
My perfect day would end…
JEFFREY BANKS: With reading a great book with a great cocktail
The title of my autobiography will likely be…
JEFFREY BANKS: STORYTELLER: Tales From A Fashion Insider.
To get your own copy of STORYTELLER: Tales From A Fashion Insider, visit here.
