Kristen O'Brien
From Direct Flights From Texas To World-Class Biking, Golf, Rafting, And Luxe Four Seasons Spa Days, Whistler Is The Canadian Ski Village That Stays With You Year ‘Round
Photography courtesy of Kristen O’Brien and Four Seasons Resort & Residences Whistler
Texans love to head north in search of cooler temperatures in the summer and fall, and in less time than it takes to drive to Colorado, you could be in Whistler, British Columbia, thanks to direct flights to Vancouver from most major airports in Texas. Summer temperatures hover in the 70s, pristine, refreshing lakes and rivers invite water enthusiasts, and the mountains offer shade to hikers and bikers, as well as an abundance of wildlife, according to our globe-trotting writer, Kristen O’Brien.
Initially opened for skiing in the winter of 1965-66, Whistler was put on the map globally in 2010 when it hosted the Winter Olympics. Located in the Coast Mountains north of Vancouver, it is still primarily known for its snowy landscapes, epic skiing and snowboarding, and après-ski scene. But what you may not know is that it’s an ideal summer-to-fall getaway for families (or solo travelers like myself) with offerings such as the “world’s best” mountain bike park, four world-class golf courses, ziplining, hiking, rock climbing, whitewater rafting, and kayaking, as well as food, sports, music, and arts festivals.
When I had the opportunity to visit Whistler, I was struck by the international crowd, those who came from all over to enjoy summer in the mountains, but also those drawn to work there. And one thing I heard over and over again was, “We came for the winter but stayed for the summers.” After a few days in Whistler, I could understand why the summer months seduce visitors into staying.
I stayed at the Four Seasons Resort & Residences Whistler, which is a short walk from Whistler Village, but the hotel also operates a complimentary shuttle and a house car service. The resort feels like a luxe ski chalet with cozy wood interiors and terraces with mountain views.
They have a full-service spa, fitness center, and an outdoor heated pool with whirlpool and sauna. Even though it was a little chilly outside when I chose to sit by the pool, a pool attendant greeted me with a warm blanket, and I ordered hot chocolate spiked with rum.
Depending on the season, there’s a retrofitted 1960s vintage patio camper with s’mores and hot chocolate. I did get to take advantage of the spa and tried the Magic of the Mountains Journey, one of their signature services that uses Sḵwálwen Botanicals, an Indigenous skincare line that “honors Squamish plant knowledge and ancestral traditions.” (I loved the rose products, which can be purchased at the Cultural Centre.) My “ritual” included a wild rose scrub, a warm lichen wrap, and a rose facial massage, followed by a full-body massage and a pedicure.
There are two restaurants located at the Four Seasons: SIDECUT Steakhouse, where I had miso-glazed eggplant, mushroom risotto with a perfectly seared scallop, followed by the dark chocolate soufflé (I may have tried their famous rigatoni ‘mac and cheese as well, but no one’s telling). Braidwood Tavern is a more casual dining spot, a place for crafted cocktails and elevated comfort food. And “The Library by The Macallan” is a seasonal whisky bar.
Upon arrival, I was enchanted by the beauty of the Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, which I experienced up close on my first day with a ride on the Whistler Village Gondola, where you can then connect to the Peak 2 Peak Gondola, the world’s longest continuous lift system that bridges the gap between the two mountains, allowing for more hiking and dining options above 7,000 feet. It’s also where I saw my first black bear enjoying the flora and fauna of its protected habitat. Another way to get a bird’s-eye view of the mountains, many of which are snow-capped year-round, is with the Harbour Air seaplane tours, where you can float over the turquoise glacial waters of Garibaldi Lake and dip over the rugged peaks, glaciers and alpine meadows of the Coast Mountain range.
Other outdoor activities included scampering across treetop suspension bridges and soaring through lush old-growth rain forests, ziplining through the Fitzsimmons Valley between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains with Ziptrek Eco Tours. And a paddling adventure with Whistler Eco Tours kayaking across Alta Lake where I encountered an eagle couple perched in a black cottonwood tree, then through the Whistler Wetlands and down the scenic glacial River of Golden Dreams, navigating beaver dams along the way. If a little less exertion is preferred, there is the Whistler Farmer’s Market every Sunday through October 12, as well as the popular Wine Walk where you can enjoy a glass of wine while perusing galleries in town. Other noteworthy events to check out include the Mountain Top Summer Feast, Whistler Summer Concert Series, and the Whistler Village Beer Festival in September.
Rain or shine, you must visit the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre for guided tours by Cultural Ambassadors from the indigenous Squamish Nation and Lil’wat Nation. Whistler is located on the shared territory of these two nations. Besides the exhibits, I enjoyed the meandering nature paths behind the Centre and trying the traditional bannock or “fry bread” at the Thunderbird Café. Daily specials include Bannock Tacos, venison chili and salmon chowder. Another cultural gem in the heart of Whistler is the Audain Art Museum, which houses a permanent collection of British Columbia art from the late 18th century to the present. The architecture of the 56,000-square-foot museum is stunning, with sharp modern metal angles that somehow integrate beautifully into the surrounding forest. The interior galleries are lined with warm, luminous wood in contrast to the charcoal exterior, so the building feels at once intimidating yet inviting.
I also ventured into the main village to enjoy lunch at Provisions, a popular neighborhood cafe, cocktails at Bar Oso, a lively tapas restaurant, and a six-course tasting dinner at Bearfoot Bistro which included a tuna tartare amuse bouche, a burrata dish, pasta with nettles, elk sausage and steak with peas, rhubarb chiffon, and their famous nitro ice cream prepared tableside with lots of smoke and fanfare. But that wasn’t all. I learned to saber the top off of a bottle of champagne in the most impressive underground wine cellar I’d ever seen. You can book a table and dine amongst the collection of over 15,000 bottles of wine from around the world. And, as a nightcap, I was taken to their very own ice bar, the 25°F Grey Goose Ice Room, where I got to play bartender, pouring shots of every variety of vodka while wearing my Arctic jacket. It was definitely an incredible send-off on my last night in Whistler. Would I recommend spending summer in a ski village? If it’s Whistler, yes, for a charming, refreshing alternative to the Texas summer heat.
And, yes, Whistler is still a world-class ski resort destination and plenty of Texans visit there. The ski season starts November 20th.
Enjoy nonstop flights from Houston and Dallas to Vancouver, plus weekly nonstop flights from Austin. Then savor the 76-mile drive to Whistler via the Sea-to-Sky Highway (BC Highway 99), which is considered one of the world’s most spectacular drives and winds around breathtaking bays along Howe Sound, snow-capped mountains, cascading waterfalls, and provincial parks. You’ll definitely want to do this drive during daylight hours. If you want to book a car service, I recommend VIP Whistler Car Service.
If you’re planning to stay a few nights in Vancouver, try the Westin Bayshore hotel located beside Stanley Park with panoramic views of the North Shore mountains, Coal Harbour marina, and downtown skyline. Also, in the Coal Harbor neighborhood with exquisite views and midcentury modern decor is the Loden Hotel. Or, for old Hollywood glamor, try the landmark Rosewood Hotel Georgia in downtown Vancouver.
The official website for planning a holiday in Whistler is Whistler.com.
Here Are The Top 8 Reasons Texans Fall for Whistler Beyond Ski Season
- Direct flights to Vancouver make a quick northern getaway easy
- Summer temps in the 70s with pristine lakes and rivers to explore
- World-class mountain biking plus hiking, rock climbing, and wildlife sightings
- Golf courses, ziplining, and whitewater rafting for every adventure level
- Luxe relaxation at Four Seasons Resort Whistler: spa, heated pool, and signature rituals
- Gondola views and Peak 2 Peak connections above 7,000 feet
- Lake kayaking, seaplane scenery, and scenic drives on the Sea-to-Sky Highway
- Cultural must-dos: Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, Audain Art Museum, and local food
