Kristen O'Brien
Texans Love This Island Retreat As Much As Aspen & Cabo. Here’s Why.
St. Barths is still the Jet Set getaway, and why shouldn’t it be? The island destination has everything you could ever want to unplug and also reconnect, discovers our intrepid traveler Kristen O’Brien, who shares her barefoot luxury point of view while staying at Hôtel Barrière Le Carl Gustaf.
Photography courtesy of Kristen O’Brien and Hôtel Barrière Le Carl Gustaf
Suppose you’re seeking some R&R after a busy social season, with ample sun and beach time, a dash of glitz and glamour, and an incredibly romantic setting. In that case, Saint Barthélemy, aka St. Barths or à la française, St. Barths, the jewel of the Antilles, does not disappoint. The “season” on the island lasts from early November until the end of August, when most hotels shut down for the hurricane season. The height of the season is between Thanksgiving and the New Year, when the population of almost 10,000 grows to include a who’s who of monied and well-heeled globe trotters with their yachts on full display in Gustavia’s harbor.
Nestled on a hill above the port of Gustavia is the capital of St. Barth. The Hôtel Barrère Le Carl Gustaf St Barths overlooks one of the most spectacular bays in the Caribbean. Designed by the renowned French firm Gilles & Boissier, the five-star resort exudes luxury, elegance, and French-style charm throughout its 21 rooms, suites, and bungalows, all of which face the ocean. The bungalows have plunge pools, and the 5-bedroom Villa Diane has a private chef and butler. The colonial-style Carl Gustaf was built in the 1970s and purchased by the Barrière Group in 2016.
With a roster of luxury properties all over France, including Cannes, Courchevel, and Marrakech, and the recently opened Hotel Fouquet’s in New York, this was their first venture into the Caribbean. Renovations were halted in 2017 due to Hurricane Irma, and therefore, they were not reopened until late 2020. The hotel boasts a chic, French ambiance that also complements the island’s laid-back atmosphere, providing all the necessities and luxuries one could desire. Pricing for the villa starts at just under $19,000 per night, and for the other accommodations, some rooms are available during the low season for $781 a night.
Le Carl Gustaf offers a newly opened restaurant on site, a “haute couture” meat bar aptly named Beefbar. Guests can savor dishes such as Wagyu steak and Kobe prosciutto, an exclusive menu item developed by founder Riccardo Giradui. There are fresh and light options on the Leaf & Reef, including the iconic Miso Spinach and the refreshing Hamachi Crudo. And of course, a mouth-watering signature Soufflé rounds out the meal. All while enjoying the warm tropical breeze and view of twinkling lights below in Gustavia.
What’s wonderful at the Carl Gustaf is that you don’t need a car and can walk to most of the places you’d want to go…a fabulous beach restaurant and club at Shell Beach, the cute boutiques and haute couture shops of Gustavia, the trendy bars and other incredible restaurants like Bonito, Bagatelle, and Orega, are all walkable if you don’t mind climbing down a steep hill…and up again. The hotel provides electric bicycles for its guests, a car service to the ferry or airport, and a stellar concierge team that can organize taxis to other destinations on the island.
A great place to start your trip is at Shellona, the private beach club and Greek restaurant on Shell Beach, a quick five-minute walk from the hotel and where guests can easily get a day bed and soak up the sun, enjoy an Aperol, mix with interesting people from around the globe, and watch one of the best sunsets on the island. Like most beach restaurants on St. Barths, and there are 22 beaches on the island, there is usually a DJ on site creating a carefree party vibe similar to what you’d expect to find in Ibiza or Mykonos.
Another key benefit of staying at the Carl Gustaf is that all the pampering and treatments you can dream of are on-site at the Spa Diane Barrière. This spa offers multi-sensory and bespoke holistic therapies, facials, manicures and pedicures, tailored massages in three massage rooms, and a fitness and yoga studio. Other activities the hotel offers or can coordinate, besides the electric bikes and aqua bikes, include Catamaran sailing excursions, water sports, hiking tours, picnics, and fishing.
If you can pull yourself away from the tranquility and pampering at Carl Gustaf, then head into Gustavia for shopping at Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, and adorable local boutiques, like Poupette, Lolita Jaca, and Sea Memory. There are also 40 quartiers to discover and many places to swim, snorkel, hike, enjoy top-notch culinary delights, and dance the night away.
No other place compares to this chic and cozy spot, where you can feel the warm Caribbean breezes, view the stunning water, islands, and mountains, and admire the colorful Caribbean buildings, dotted with Swedish architecture and churches. One can hear the church bells ringing, the bleating of the cabris, the mourning doves chirping, and by nightfall, the katydids. St. Barths is a magical place that enchants the senses. The Island is luxurious but understated, although nothing is understated in its stunning beauty and impeccable hospitality.
